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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 75
Mostly harmless
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Mostly harmless
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 75 |
That doesn't seem to be something that's easy to do on the Sunfire -- the positive and negative connectors for each channel are integrated into 1 unit rather than being separate. Think this is not a path I want to go down but thanks for the suggestion.
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,560 Likes: 1
Working on the ultimate question
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Working on the ultimate question
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,560 Likes: 1 |
Keep in mind internally in the amplifier the wiring probably isn't anything special and a short jumper or adapter could solve your problem. What are you using for speaker cables? You might be better off getting new cables to make it work. If you have a lot of equipment in your rack you don't want hot amplifiers in there. If you have a Meridian DVD player it will fry the drive. They run hot if not ventilated very well and adding a hot amplifier is just that much worse.
I used to have expensive Cardas cables with big spades and when I moved my system into a new theater I built I realized I wouldn't be spending $10,000 for cables...nuts! I wanted something better than just zip cord so I tried Kimber Kable in bulk. Tell you the truth the Kimber 8TC sounds better than Cardas Cross. You can get it for $12 a foot in the US. I eliminated the spades and went with bare wire and let me tell you it sounds so much better without the spades and solder. I'm happy with the sound I get with the Kimber 8TC's up front. I used their inwall 12AWG cable for the surrounds. You can purchase 300ft rolls of it.
Cheers,
Ron
HT: 568.2mm (Revelation One filter), 518x2, SB3, Bryston 7BSTx3, 8BST, Aerial 10T, CC3, SW12(Qty2) w/SVS AS-EQ1, MK Tripole x4. JVC RS1u, DVDO Duo, Oppo 103 w/Vanity103HD, Sony PS3, VIP 3D Theatre, Acer H5360. Logitech Ultimate Remote and Hub.
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 26
Harmless
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Harmless
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 26 |
I use a Rotel RMB1077 with my 568.2 and I am very happy with it. Runs cool and sounds wonderful.
You need to leave a couple of inches above the amp for ventilation.
NUC i7, Roon, HQ Player, Lampizator L4G5, Meridian Explorer 2, MRendu + linear PS, EAR V20, Woo Audio WA22, Senn 800, Audeze LCD XC, PMC GB1i.
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 39
Harmless
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Harmless
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 39 |
I have a G55. Have to say doesn't usually run very hot- left on shelf with not too much clearance above (maybe an inch!?) next to my G68. Never had it trip on me (don't usually listen at particularly high volumes mind) Such a contrast to my SKY HD box that seems to go belly up at any oppurtunity from overheating and that is with lots of open space! Hope that helps Richard
G61R SL, HD621 M6 Front Artcoustic Speakers Diablo Surrounds - All SOLD! :-( Arcam Power amp for rear channels- Sold Sonos Surround system- sold
OPPO BDP-103 Virgin TIVO, PS4, Apple TV 4K LG 65 inch Oled Sennheiser Ambeo Soundbar
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 72
Mostly harmless
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Mostly harmless
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 72 |
For me it has to be Chord Electronic Amps, they not only sound good with films, but great with music too. Well worth an audition. Oh and Audience AU24 cables to compliment them too!!!
;-)
861v8, 861v4, 596, HD621, F80, I80, Oppo BDP-105D, Chord SPM 1200E, Chord SPM 1900E, Audience Adept Response AR8, PS4, PS3, Sky+HD, Monitor Audio Platinum's all round, REL Studio iii, Panasonic ZT65 and Audience AU24SE cabling all round.
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 67
Mostly harmless
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Mostly harmless
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 67 |
Originally posted by number6.mi: I'm looking for a new 5 channel amplifier to connect to a G68 and need to put it in a confined space and wanted to put 2 questions to the forum:
How warm running is the G55?
Does anyone have any recommendations on Class D amplifiers, ideally with XLR inputs? Ive used the BAT (Balanced Audio Technology) 6200 with my Meridan - BIG unit, BIG $$ but sounds fablous!
Texas Steve
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 8
Harmless
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Harmless
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 8 |
I'm currently auditioning a Halcro MC20 driving my left and right front channels, in place of my Proceed HPA2. I'm doing this with the idea in mind of replacing the HPA2 and Proceed AMP3 with either a Halcro MC50 or a Simaudio Moon Aurora 5.
The MC20 is a class D amp with single-ended and balanced XLR inputs (I'm running it balanced from my G68XXV) and 400 wpc (continuous I think, not peak; into 4 ohms). The MC30 is the 3 channel version. The MC50 and MC70 are the 5 and 7 channel versions, but with 375 wpc (again, into 4 ohms; again continuous, I think, not peak). When I compared it to a Simaudio Moon W5.3 in the showroom using a Simaudio CD, Spectral pre-amp, and Magico speakers, there was a clear difference between the Sim and the Halcro. The Halcro was amazingly "accurate", but seemed "dry" and "clinical" in the showroom. The Sim was more "musical" and had more low-end slam, but was not as good at defining each and every sound/voice/instrument. FYI, I haven't trained myself to be able to detect small differences between amps (nto really an "audiophile"), so these were not subtle differences. At home, using B&W Nautilus 802s (not "D") which likely have a warmer sound (especially in the upper bass) than the set-up at the dealer, the MC20 has been more accurate than my Proceed HPA2, but doesn't suffer from being too "clinical" after 1 day of listening to music. Unfortunately, the dealer doesn't have the MC50 or MC70 for me to try out at home. The MC20 has barely gotten warm, sitting on a wooden shelf without anything above it. Of note, I believe that going from MC20 to 30 to 50 to 70, Halcro simply adds modules in the same chassis and changes the backplate and faceplate, so an MC70 might run significantly hotter than an MC20. Specs are available on Halcro's website.
If you're worried about ventilation, take a look at a company called "Cool Components".
Meridian G68XXV, Meridian G08, Panasonic Blu-Ray, Proceed HPA2/AMP3, Nautilus 802/HTM1/805, Velodyne DD-12, JVC DLA-RS1, Stewart GreyHawk RS
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