Meridian Unplugged - Powered by MrTechGuy.co.uk Forums Discussion Meridian - Systems New tweeters

With some feminine ingenuity/advice/input from my better half, I have manufactured an extraction tool (patent pending). Take Bobbie hair pin, unfold, snip off bulbous end with wire cutter section of needle nose pliers, bend just the tip to 90 degrees, insert in screw hole, catch the back of faceplate, and pull loose. Just be careful that as it breaks free from gasket it doesn’t t fall out and swing into your mid woof.

I was surprised to find my DSP 5K to be H715’s (25 TAFD/GW-BS) made 06/97. Was thinking I’d try ferrofluid refurbishment at my local speaker repair place (only $50/pair) first, but considering that I’m also considering 24/96 board upgrade and those would definitely not be EQ’d for H715’s, not so sure...

I don’t understand your last sentence. I am not aware that the boards are EQ’ed for different tweeters. I think a new black tweeter is expected to blend with the prior model, which have basically the same specifications and are also made by SEAS, if I understand correctly.

If not I will soon stand corrected😀 In setup you will match the loudness levels.

Hello ,

I have 3 DSP5200 legacy speaker , and I want to change the 3 tweeter. What is the exact model that I have to buy? The Seas h1212 ? The Seas Excel tweeter ?

Thank’s in advance .

Read about a page back. Bruce stocks them.

The H1212’s are similar but not OEM and require some modification of cabinets and new holes. But cheaper.

Excel is much more$$ and requires modification of its faceplate to fit in.

As we’ve talked a bit privately, as each OEM tweeter model gets retired by SEAS, and a new replacement one is commissioned, they may attempt to make it electrically and physically similar to maintain similar characteristics and rearward compatibility, but the operative word is similar. Heck, tweeters within the same manufacturing run of the same model vary enough as it is.

There is no way that a new model is EXACTLY the same. So if I have full control over DSP firmware EQ of the tweeter, as Meridian does, you can bet they tweak the DSP EQ accordingly when a new tweeter model is introduced. Hence, the DSP EQ curve will vary somewhat on a board made when they used the H715 vs one later when they used the H539 and again when they used the one mentioned here.

Now the differences may not be dramatic, not noticeable even to some, but they gotta be there. Might be academic, but isn’t 90% of what is discussed on here?!?

From the other thread “Meridian Tweeters”:

Can you explain me how to access the calibration setup to adjust the levels of the drivers?

Best Regards,
Jorge

Instructions here, depends on which tweeters you have and are replacing with.
https://theintegratedhome.live/tweeter-and-the-monkey-man

Rgds
Stuart

Each tweeter, as far as I know, was always calibrated after installation, even replacing with the same type, as a last step after installation.

Thanks, Stuart.

I followed the instructions in the link, was able to make the adjustments but now my speaker are stuck in the following text “D1 L 65”, master red light on, I turned it off using the rear button and it always return to this same text. Any ideas how to get out of the calibration menu?

Thanks for the help.

SOLVED!
To return the speakers to normal operation I needed to select the speaker type again, in my case I turned off the speakers and turned on again pressing the number 5 on the remote. 😅

I had the same when I replaced my tweeters and did a calibration, retyping is mentioned at the end of the instructions.

Rgds
Stuart

Can you believe that for some reason I totally miss the re-typing in the last step of the instructions?

I don't know if I haven't understood the meaning at the time, after I found my self locked at D1 65 L screen I read that text several times but misses the clear and simple solution, maybe I panic.

In the end, I didn't change anything in calibration menu, but it's a good tool to know.

I just replaced the ferrofluid of my 3 speakers, the center DSP5000c was the one that shows the most gains, because prior to cleaning and refilling the sound was missing some kind of presence and brightness, as soon I replaced it everything changes. The old ferrofluid was almost dry, but with a stick touch.

The DSP7k still had some fluid in it, but I cleaned everything and replaced with new ferrofluid, I was in doubt about the amount and add 0,5ml on each tweeter, if someone has the knowledge of the ideal amount, please let me know.

The sound of the DSP7k seems a little better, with more presence, but it didn't changed much, I made some REW of before and after, but the results are almost the same, but in person it seems that guitars have a little more edge now and cymbals are more lively, so I thing it was an improvement.

Thanks for all the tips and the support.