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Hi

"Sometimes" you can cut off the lead wires and with a 0.5mm drill in a little chuck, drill out the remainder of the lead from the board.

Just to clarify further I use a pin chuck and rotate drill bit by hand.

Works for me, but at your own risk

Regards I


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President of the Imperial Galactic Government
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We used a hand drill AFTER we removed the lead.

We cut the resistor at top first.

We had a "power" Solder Sucker but it was designed for more modern boards that can take heat better. It was kind of mixed results using it.

The non burned resistors came out easy.

But the burned ones the solder didn't melt or conduct heat very well.

If you leave the lead in and try to drill I think it would be very easy to drift away from the center because the lead would be lot harder than the material around it, which is mostly PCB board.

We did 30 Resistors !!

Here is an image of the bottom BEFORE we touched it. Not good.

[Linked Image from c1.staticflickr.com]


- Fiddler (IMHO)

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Hitchhiker
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Looks like mine used to. You guys have been busy. It's amazing what long-term heat degradation can do.

How did you wind up with such a large collection of speakers?


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MI' Offline
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Hi,

The drill can wander, which is why I said "sometimes" for exactly the reason you state.

I have had success though

Regards I


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President of the Imperial Galactic Government
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Originally Posted by RobinASU
How did you wind up with such a large collection of speakers?
That wasn’t even all of them smile some didn’t need repair.


- Fiddler (IMHO)

If you think listening to music is fun, try learning an instrument.
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Paranoid android
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For the stubborn joints did you try adding a little flux and then adding solder to the joint? After that add a bit more flux before de-soldering.


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Harmless
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hi Tarik

just been reading the post on DSP, I have one that's just gone down I don't know where to start, I know the repair lad is gone. can you help me I'm in pershore not far

rgds Sean


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Paranoid android
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Sean, PM sent


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President of the Imperial Galactic Government
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Originally Posted by Tarik
For the stubborn joints did you try adding a little flux and then adding solder to the joint? After that add a bit more flux before de-soldering.
Yes, did that on all of them.

It still didn’t flow/mix well on the burned ones. Still lots of resistance pulling out the burned ones.

The non burned ones practically fell out as soon as we touched it with the iron.

Traces were no longer adhered to the board.


- Fiddler (IMHO)

If you think listening to music is fun, try learning an instrument.
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Pan-dimensional being
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Great thread and thanks for posting those photos. Any other DSPs need maintenance like the resistors on the 5000s? I also have 5500s and 6000s, but never opened them up.

Thankfully, they have been working well so far, so no need to. The 5500s are almost 20 years old at this point. The 6000s are probably even older.


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Paranoid android
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Not sure about the other DSPs, but M60s share the same resistor problem so should be checked.

Also to state the obvious, centre speakers will be affected as well.


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President of the Imperial Galactic Government
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Originally Posted by Tarik
Not sure about the other DSPs, but M60s share the same resistor problem so should be checked.

Also to state the obvious, centre speakers will be affected as well.

We did 2 centers. Both cooked.


- Fiddler (IMHO)

If you think listening to music is fun, try learning an instrument.
HT: G61RSL, 4x5K, 5.5KHC, 2xSC6000, Transporter, HD621, Philips BDP7501 4K, Tivo, 65" LG OLED 4K C6
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