Meridian Unplugged - Powered by MrTechGuy.co.uk Forums Discussion Meridian - Systems Which processor/direction is right for me?

Yes I do! Thanks for understanding (thanks Dan too).

In my current setup I have a 4 channel amp that is connected to the unbalanced rca's labeled l/r surround and l/r back. Those four connections run my side and rear wall-slope-ceiling mounted Alon Centris dipoles for 7.1 movie watching. The speakers are located at 90 degrees (side) and about 130 degrees.

Then...when I simply want to listen to the dedicated hirez in 5.1 I instead turn on the stereo surround amp (not the 4 channel amp above) which is connected to the XLR balanced l/r surround outputs. This amp drives a pair of SP Tech Continuum speakers, identical to the front three (the mains include a t-line woofer stage too, as part of its stand and is called the Revelation), and these speakers are located roughly at 115-120 degrees, within the ITU setup standard. Notice that the l/r "surround" outputs of the processor are connected twice, both unbalanced and balanced,,,but NEVER on at the same time.

In both of these scenarios my front three speakers are connected normally, the front l/r's via HT bypass and my stereo preamp to a balanced set of Spectron monoblocks, the center via unbalanced center out to a monoblock amp.

I can manage the unblanaced vs balanced numbers easily enough (balanced can drive unbalanced, etc.) but I can't fix the fact that there seem to never be two sets of surround (i.e side) l/r's available in any config. There are plenty of confgs that have main or center or sub outputs showing up in both unbal and bal(unnecessary in my problem), but not surround.

Ah... I see better.

In this case, you'll want two "types" configured on the processor.

Meridian can store different configs, and you can switch between them.

One type will be configured set for 7.1 output, and the other type can be set for 5.1 output.

In each type, you can explicitly configure the output channels.

This is not how most people use Meridian product. Usually there are the preset types and the User config types, and the purpose for either is to set the system up, and then you just forget about it and enjoy.

I know this is possible, what I don't know is how difficult it is to switch between types. Normally, you hold the up arrow on the processor, and it does a countdown. Usually this is a failsafe so you can select a preset type in case everything goes south. It may be possible to store 2 different custom types and choose between them using this method.

Now, let's see... l/c/r/sub use the same outputs (balanced) for 7.1 and 5.1. For 7.1, you can use 4 of the unbalanced for ls/rs/lz/rz, and for 5.1, use the other 2 unbalanced for ls/rs... This assumes your center and sub can be driven via balanced.

I know 100% that this is doable on the 861. I don't know enough about the G68 series to know if the outputs are 100% reconfigurable.

Cheers,
- Ken

So, since I don't use the dual surround outputs at the same time (either for 5.1 surrounds or for 7.1 sides) then I've reached the conclusion that the silly inexpensive $3600 G68 ADV on Audiogon (one complete set of unbalanced outs) and a set of y-adapters is a simple yet effective solution. The y-adapters will work in that I will do what I do now...set the calibration level for 7.1 and then, using the internal trims of the Oppo, set the hirez surrounds to calibrate correctly for 5.1. That way the modded Oppo, although now calibrated incorrectly for 7.1 movies, will be calibrated right for 5.1 hirez. All 7.1 movie watching will be done through the modded Bluray, calibrated for 7.1. Both the dipole movie sides and the hirez surrounds are approx the same distance from me, so delay differences are moot. Any holes in this logic?

Separate but related question: can level trims be adjusted on the fly via the remote, like my Onkyo Pro 9and some previous processors)?

Hmmmm...thought of something else. Are the digital outs still live even when using the analog outs? Reason I ask is that maybe I could power one of the surround sets with a class d amp that has an SPDIF input...just a wild idea. I'm not married to either the 4 channel movie amp nor the stereo amp that runs my surround SP Tech music speakers, and running some portion of that digitally is ok with me, especially the "less important" Alon Centris sides. I mean, I'm well aware of Class D hi-end amplification (my wonderful Spectron monoblocks are class d) but not closed loop (SPDIF input) ones. Thx
Ted

Three things:

1) If you use the digital outs, you should be aware that they are fixed volume.

2) Creating two Types (using Y splitters) would work, but you'd need another means of switching off the music set or movie set of rears/surrounds.

3) Although the G68 supports THX surround modes, Meridian favours direct radiators all round.

VK,
Thanks.
1) Good point. Nevermind.

2) I simply power one on or off depending on the use. The amps sit next to each other.

3) Yes, I don't like or use THX modes either. The Alon's are not a problem in standard surround modes. I began all this with Lex's DC-1 and Logic7 back in 1987 when we built the HT as part of the home build. Twenty one years of 7.1 and counting...argh!

"2) Creating two Types (using Y splitters) would work, but you'd need another means of switching off the music set or movie set of rears/surrounds."

Can you turn a trigger on in one type and off in another? If so you could use that to power a DPDT relay to switch the side output between the two amps inputs without needing a Y splitter or powering on/off the amps. Likewise it could be used to switch at speaker level two different speakers to the same amplifier.

Shawn

Just go the whole hog and get DSP speakers! The speakers can configure themselves on or off depending on the source selected. So if you select one source, one set of DSP speakers will be active and for another source, another set of DSP speakers will be active.

The selected source will the determine your choice of music/movies - for the uninitiated, a source is simply a logical designation of inputs - different sources can have the same physical inputs - for instance, CD and DVD are two different sources, but often have the same physical inputs but different DSP settings. DSP speakers will then be on, or muted.

Also... if the two different side amps both have trigger inputs you could use that with a trigger that turns on/off by type to turn one amp on and the other off and then Y the output to both amps.

You would need a 12v PS and a normally closed reed relay to invert the trigger state of the Meridian for one amp.

Wire the Meridian trigger directly to one amps trigger input (amp A)and to the coil of the reed relay. Feed the 12v to the contact of the relay and to the amp you want ON when the Meridians trigger is off (amp B).

When the Meridian triggers is off amp A will have will have no 12v trigger and will be OFF. The reed relays coil will not be energized so it will feed 12v to AMP B turning it on.

When you change type and the Meridian trigger turns ON that will turn ON amp A. The Meridian trigger will also energize the reed relays coil opening that connection and removing the 12v from amp B turning it off.

Shawn

I think the DC-1 was more like 1997. I started with a DC-1 too.

I switched from a current DC-1 to a Meridian 561, 568, 568.2, 861, G68.

Sorry, I meant the Lex CP-1 back then, the DC-1 predecessor. I then went to DC-1 and several other Lex platforms until the MC-1. Good to know other DC-1 vets.

Guys, Im sticking with my incredibly musical SP Tech speakers for 2 channel and hirez. And the trigger process is unnecessary but thanks. The amps sit right next to each other and the power switch is simple. As one said on this thread already, I'll keep it simple. Thx
Ted

If you are willing to flip switches for the amps then why not add a switcher for the speakers. The Y cable will work but it's not ideal. You could even get everything controlled electronically via IR or X10 (Amps and Speaker switchers).

I think you'll find a lot of folks see that sort of reconfig manually (and the comprimise adding Y cable) gets old after a while and you end up leaving it in one mode or the other eventually.