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#124380 2010-09-06 08:48
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Based on various post on this forum this seems to be the pin layout of the SpeakerLink:

RJ45 SpeakerLink Input on DSP
Pin 1-Master Comms
Pin 2-Ground
Pin 3-RS232 Rx
Pin 4-Slave Comms
Pin 5-Ground
Pin 6-RS232 Tx
Pin 7-AES+
Pin 8-AES-

Since pin 1 was never mentioned I assume it is the comm signal. Maybe someone can test and verify this?
There are 3 different signal with each its own ground. Although both 2 and 5 were mentioned for AES, I guess 2 is for the comm.

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But .. the wires in a ethernet cable are twisted as pairs.

Normal cable is 1&2, 3&6, 4&5 and 7&8

Also we need shielded cable, so one more ground perhaps ?

Last edited by Jaco; 2010-09-06 12:59.

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Hitchhiker
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Here is the SpeakerLink info I got directly from Meridian:

RJ45 SpeakerLink Output From Control 10
Pin 1-Master
Pin 2-Ground
Pin 3-RS232 Tx
Pin 4-Slave
Pin 5-Ground
Pin 6-RS232 Rx
Pin 7-AES+
Pin 8-AES-

I'm just using this info to make a SpeakerLink to AES digital cable (which works), so I have not verified the other wires (Pins 1,3,4&6). In my cable I did not hook up a shield for the cable, I'm just using pins 5,7&8 for the balanced digital data.

Yes, 3&6 Tx&Rx are a twisted pair as is 4&5 Slave & Ground.

As with any info like this: use this at your own risk.


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Hi Victor.

I am trying to do the same was you mentioned you did, feed a pair of M6 speakers with AES signal.

I am using the pin 1 and 2 hooked up to the MC200, so it can control the speakers (turn it on, control volume), this works fine, but when I connect the AES cable the speaker blows its fuse (only the master one does it).

Maybe the problem is that I am using TWO grounds? One ground for the Comms (pin 2) and another ground to the audio signal (pin 5) or my Canare BCJ-XP-TRC adaptor that should transform 75 ohms SPDIF in 110 ohms is not functioning well.

Any ideas of what I am doing wrong?

I developed a simple Arduino code to control the speaker using RS232 pins, it worked but I didn't try it yet with the audio signal from the Canare.

Just for clarification, until now I never send any audio via the SPDIF to the speaker, it blows the fuse only by being connected. The Canare is connected to the speakers via an CAT6 cable with only the propers pins solder to it.

Thanks!

Jorge

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PC/Headphones: Mytek Liberty II, Sansui CA-F1, Sansui B-2301, Sennheiser HD800, Kef R3

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Hi, MagnusB.

Thanks for the link. I had already study that thread and made everything according to it.

I concluded that the Canare was the problem in the connection I was trying to make, so now I am looking for another AES audio source alternative. I am using the comms pins of the RJ45 connected with the MC200, so I am able to turn it on, off and control volume, now I need the source or an SPDIF to AES/EBU convertor (passive or active).

Cheers,

Jorge

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Hi

Just three thoughts - although I am by no means an expert at this:

1. Be very careful with the pins on the XLR. It is very easy to get confused. Be sure what side you are viewing from - solder side(rear view in image below) or pin side! Also be sure what sex you are looking at! Hopefully the transformer has numbers on it so that you can follow it through your connector.


[Linked Image]

2. It will probably work without the AES ground connection as at the AES end, the ground is just for shielding. (In case you want to try it to eliminate something?)

[Linked Image]
(Note that the above diagram is not from your make of transformer)

3. Pin 7 (AES+) in the speaker may have phantom DC power (with ground). Connecting AES + and AES - to the transformer (AES 110/SPDIF 75 converter) should not be an issue but if you have somehow connected AES+ to ground that may be an issue!

Regards
Peter


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Thanks Mr_Anderson for the detailed reply.

I returned the Canare impedance transformer, now I am looking for a simple interface that convertes digital to digital (SPDIF to AES/EBU). For now I didn't find any 218 for sale (used or new) in Brazil.

If you have any other suggestions about how to transform SPDIF to AES/EBU, please let me know.

About the phantom power, is this what enable the MS200 to be energized by the SpeakerLink?

Regards,
Jorge

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I have now seen posts on this on this forum confirming that the M6 will power the MS200.(edited from MC200 - thanks for the correction Bruce!)

My diagram of an impedance matching transformer in my previous post above was a non specific make.

Looking at a Canare (may not be your exact model) in more detail , I have noticed that the ground is connected to the centre tap of the transformer meaning that the phantom power is connected across half of the transformer winding:

[Linked Image]

The Neutrik one does not have the ground connected to a centre tap on the AES side of the transformer:

[Linked Image]

I think that I have seen a forum member use one of these Neutrik ones before - I'm not shure which direction or whether there was phantom power.

There are 4 types (with various different sex connectors). I suspect that they can all be used in either direction but the data sheets suggest that 2 have a 75 ohm input - although its not marked as input on the device. (The 3rd one down should be OK)

[Linked Image]

Peter

Last edited by Mr_Anderson; 2023-10-07 19:00.

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Conrad Johnson Power Amp, Avalon Symbols (Front)
Rotel Power Amp and Neat Critiques (Rear)
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Thinking about 218
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M6 can power a MS200 but not a MC200. I have used the AES to SPDIF converters shown above with good success.


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Bruce

Thanks for correcting/confirming my previous post.
Regards

Peter


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Conrad Johnson Power Amp, Avalon Symbols (Front)
Rotel Power Amp and Neat Critiques (Rear)
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I mentioned the MS200 because if that can be powered from the speakers, I should take extra care about what pins transport that energy.

I don't own a MS200, just a MC200 (that I power using the proper Meridian power connection).

About the transformer, almost all informations I found is for the SpeakerLink/AES to SPDIF, there little to no info about the inverse, but if the help of people like you here in the post I already figured out everything needed. Now it is a matter of finding the proper parts or a 218 Zone Controller (a more elegant solution).

Cheers,

Jorge

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