Meridian Unplugged - Powered by MrTechGuy.co.uk Forums Discussion Meridian - Systems Version 3 upgrade questions

Buying 7ks and 8ks is an interesting way to get the upsampling.

Rick, which disc are you have a no read error on?

The two DVDs were "Toy Story 2" and "Tarzan." I was trying to get a movie going for the kids. Neither would read. Just turned the 800 off and on (via front panel switch) and viola, both discs played without issue.

I have a similar setup, but with 6000's in the front, including the center. The 6000's also have side-firing woofers, but it has not been a problem at all. After all, low frequencies are not very directional. As long as you have sufficient space between the LR speakers and the walls of the room, I don't think you would have a problems with 3 8000's in the front.

I also wired the room for subs but have not used them. The 6000's do provide enough bass, but I think I may add a sub anyway. The reason is that I have a room mode of around 70 Hz. Since I can't get a Meridian room correction solution, by adding a sub I would at least get some limited control over the low end, enough to neutralize the bass hump.

Do you really want a 10' wide screen? DVD does not have enough resolution to make it enjoyable. @10' wide, you will need a double stack (or a 3-chip DLP) to get decent light off of it. I would suggest a nice size of 80" wide. Not as big or flashy, but quality is better.

Jerry, you might want to look into a dedicated LFE sub or use the sub out for some Buttkickers.

Regarding the 10' screen that JerryL mentioned. I just installed a Seleco (Sim2) HT300 DLP projector and 10' wide (135" diagonal) Firehawk screen and couldn't be happier. I have no issues with brightness.

Unfortunately this meant putting off the V3 upgrade to my 861 until next year. But moving from a 65" RPTV to the projector has been more than worth it.

--Jeff

Stacey,
thanks for the recommendations. Its been a while since I looked at the physical dimensions of the room and seating locations.

I have decided to downsize the screen to 96" (8').

I used to be very much in the hardline videophile camp: black had to be ink black and only CRT would do. That means "small" screen sizes.

But I saw a 3 chip DLP on a big screen about 24 months ago and I was impressed. The fellow said- forget the videophile rules, just remember 2 things: big and bright.

I think youre right- you can go too big. But, I think having a big, bright image makes it seem more "cinematic". as for deep, inky blacks, well, those dont exist at the movie house- so Im OK with the DLP and DILAs of the world. I think I prefer what I see out of the DILA+panamorph group.

any suggestions for projectors + video processors for a 96" wide screen with a throw distance of ~30 feet?

you dont think 4 8000s will generate enough energy for LFE or will they be overwhelmed? I can add sub(s) if needed... Thanks for the good advice.

CCooper,
very interesting and helpful info. I am hoping that with the smaller screen I can put a 7000 under it. you know, rather than spending the money on a sub, maybe you could look into tuning the room....

[This message has been edited by JerryL (edited 10-11-2002).]

I have a 96" wide screen and a G90 CRT, and the picture is great, but the light is very controlled in the room. I don't think I would want to go bigger with the CRT.
I have my 6000's behind the screen (microperf). That is the most natural way to go. There is a lot of sound coming from the center, especially dialog, and having it come from anywhere but the center of the screen may be distracting.
I have tuned the room to some extent, but it is hard to remove the fundamental standing wave without negatively affecting other frequencies. The rest of the spectrum is pretty flat, it's just that one room mode I would like to flatten.

I agree with you on the speakers behind the screen for movies. but for both music and movies, I feel better if the speakers are not covered by the screen, even with the digital eq to compensate.

thats a nice projection setup you are running

I just got confirmation that in Europe the fascia change will cost 1995 Euro's list price. I find it very strange as it is 'only' $1495 in the USA.

Further i asked if i coud mix OAx2 and OAx3 cards as i do not like to buy 3 new cards if i ever will go above 8 channels.
I was told that if you have a OAx2m card (OAx2 is swapped in the upgrade process for OAx2m) it should work together with a OAx3 card.
I assume the misunderstanding was that perhaps the OAx1 card mixed with a OAx3 is NOT possible, but i have not asked that.



[This message has been edited by jaco (edited 10-24-2002).]