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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 204 Likes: 1
Hitchhiker
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Hitchhiker
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 204 Likes: 1 |
Steve, Ian - thanks for your input. Much appreciated.
Robert - wow, thanks! So, on to the first step: testing. I'll get an electrician to test for the presence of an external grouhd rod and the quality of earth. And to test for distortion.
| Music: NAS/Squeezebox Touch & Linn Axis/562V.2 -> DSP5200s
| Movies: G98DH -> 568.2MM -> DSP7000s, DSP5200HC, DSP5000C x2 rears, M2500, DVDO iScan VP50, LG 60"
| Humax FreeSat distributed to Cinema + two TVs
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Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 735
Paranoid android
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Paranoid android
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 735 |
Thanks folks. Sorry for being off-line for a few days - I've been at my new place with a builder's (hard) hat on.
The new feedback is most appreciated. On Friday, my recommended electrician turned up for a site visit. But, while he's AV-familiar, he didn't add anything to my knowledge and was "behind the curve" viz-a-vis the discussions we're having here.
Chenko, wow! I've learnt some more - and got more confused at the same time!
Roger, that checklist is really helpful - thanks. I was thinking things through just now - which spurred (excuse the pun) me on to get back to Hitchhikers. Could you please elaborate:
1) don't need 3 phase for hifi; thats for industry
OK. My new place happens to have it. Is that neutral or detrimental compared to single phase?
2) excellent ground
Yes, I see this as a pre-requisite. I'll get the qualty of earth tested and, if need be, add an external ground rod.
3) sensible plugs and sockets with shutters and insulated prongs
Yes, I'm sold on Neutrik for this.
4) then faff with silly power condition etc.
I've heard the arguments that these can add problems as well as cure them and am not convinced. Moreover, as I have a three phase supply, I believe I have a nice stable supply which doesn't need conditioning.
5) just sep spur
Yes, I see the need for this in principle. But I'm hazy on the specifics. I plan to dedicate one of the three phases to AV and for this to supply:
� a TV room (screen + TV box);
� a home cinema (5.1 DSP speakers + a rack of gear); and
� a music room (2 DSP speakers plus a rack of gear).
Is it sufficient to have a single supply which is then split to feed all of the above? Or a spur to feed each room? Or a spur to feed each speaker pair and each rack? Or to feed each individual speaker and each rack?!
6) breaker box
I understand the safety need for this. Does it add any other value?
7) fuses on live side
Isn't fusing always on the live? Sorry if I'm missing something here.
All the best, breaker box essential for building regs and paramount safety. liveside fusing important, some chinese kit can be neutral fused! i can't comment on 3 phase/ spur,your spark knows much more. neutrik power connectors are designed for exterior use,bit clunky imho nothing wrong with MK 13 ampers imho glad youre making progress, its common sense really by a socket tester and a multimeter, very informative and cheap roger
518, 568.2, D6Ks, D6KC, iMac dual core, iTunes 10.1 (lossless), Apogee Duet, Kuro 500A, Logic Studio, Sound Devices 702.
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 204 Likes: 1
Hitchhiker
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Hitchhiker
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 204 Likes: 1 |
Thanks Roger. I appreciate your further advice, which I'm sure to take on board.
| Music: NAS/Squeezebox Touch & Linn Axis/562V.2 -> DSP5200s
| Movies: G98DH -> 568.2MM -> DSP7000s, DSP5200HC, DSP5000C x2 rears, M2500, DVDO iScan VP50, LG 60"
| Humax FreeSat distributed to Cinema + two TVs
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 204 Likes: 1
Hitchhiker
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Hitchhiker
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 204 Likes: 1 |
A quick "heads up". While I've found an electrician who works well with my builder and me, I'm still waiting on tests of earth quality and total harmonic distortion.
My builder has made progress in clearing out the room which is to become my home cinema. It'll be a small rectangular room, with an annexe where I can place a rack of gear. Does anyone know of a thread - or have any suggestions - on room treatment? Would a curved rear wall be better than a box shape, for instance?
| Music: NAS/Squeezebox Touch & Linn Axis/562V.2 -> DSP5200s
| Movies: G98DH -> 568.2MM -> DSP7000s, DSP5200HC, DSP5000C x2 rears, M2500, DVDO iScan VP50, LG 60"
| Humax FreeSat distributed to Cinema + two TVs
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Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 735
Paranoid android
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Paranoid android
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 735 |
no, curves focus
you need irregular walls and ratios
roger
518, 568.2, D6Ks, D6KC, iMac dual core, iTunes 10.1 (lossless), Apogee Duet, Kuro 500A, Logic Studio, Sound Devices 702.
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 204 Likes: 1
Hitchhiker
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Hitchhiker
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 204 Likes: 1 |
Thanks Roger.
OK, I think I'm getting the idea. I have a room 3.7m long x 2.8m wide x about 3m high. To help me pinpoint what's best, perhaps I might walk through a few aspects:
1) The plaster has been hacked off the two long walls to reveal exposed brickwork. Is it best to:
a) retain the brick face on the walls?
b) get these walls plastered and then use some form of acoustically-suitable material on the walls?
2) The other walls and ceiling are constucted of timber. I will specify very solid timber and have packed with loads of insulation.
3) The flooring is traditional boards on joists. I will have these relaid (with insulaton under) and use two screws at each floorboard/joist junction to secure.
4) Access to the room dictates that I must use the long walls for the run of seating and for the screen. Given the narrow width, I'm thinking I must go for small DSP speakers (such as DSP33). Can I "add" some physical space to the room by having these set partially into the walls? If so, do I get the walls cut out just to fit or with extra space (and what shape of opening)?
I'd really appreciate feedback on this. My builder loves his angle-grinder, so cutting into walls is no problem - but I don't want him (and me!) getting carried away.
| Music: NAS/Squeezebox Touch & Linn Axis/562V.2 -> DSP5200s
| Movies: G98DH -> 568.2MM -> DSP7000s, DSP5200HC, DSP5000C x2 rears, M2500, DVDO iScan VP50, LG 60"
| Humax FreeSat distributed to Cinema + two TVs
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 7,950 Likes: 19
President of the Imperial Galactic Government
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President of the Imperial Galactic Government
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 7,950 Likes: 19 |
Re #4
dsp420's are basically dsp33's as an in wall.
There is rumoured to be a new inwall soon, the dsp430 (but maybe others too) which is dsp420 but with speakerlink. With dsp33 discontinued, there is potentially scope for some changes on the electrical side too with the dsp3100 being the dsp33's sucessor.
Meridian owner since 1992
Prime & PSU, Focal Elear headphones, Roon (ROCK 8Gi5 NUC), Explorer 1 & 2, F80. 200/203, various Sonos (via Roon).
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,868 Likes: 13
Knows where his towel is
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Knows where his towel is
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,868 Likes: 13 |
Hi,
2) The other walls and ceiling are constucted of timber. I will specify very solid timber and have packed with loads of insulation.
For walls you can use acoustic roll, fibreglass of controlled density, expensive if I remember. You could just use 150mm fibreglass roll and pack it into a 100mm stud wall, that would control the density and be cheaper.
3) The flooring is traditional boards on joists. I will have these relaid (with insulaton under) and use two screws at each floorboard/joist junction to secure.
I used flooring panels, glued and screwed with 200mm fibreglass below.
My listening room is on a first floor with garage beneath, if I want to listen to music in the garage I just turn the system volume up.
I think you need to consider what you are trying to achieve, if it is an isolated room then you need to consider suspending ceilings, floors and walls.
I wish now I had also added expanded polystyrene sheet to plasterboard walls in order to damp them, however,
Regards I
Under review
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 8,816 Likes: 87
President of the Imperial Galactic Government
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President of the Imperial Galactic Government
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 8,816 Likes: 87 |
For walls you can use acoustic roll, fibreglass of controlled density, expensive if I remember. You could just use 150mm fibreglass roll and pack it into a 100mm stud wall, that would control the density and be cheaper. Just a bit more related info on this point. I built some new stud wall in Q1 last year. I put acoustic roll in most of it (to minimise noise to an adjacent bedroom) but at �50/roll it was not cheap. Cutting some costs, I used standard loft style roll for less critical areas. The loft stuff is a right P.I.T.A. to use (expanded way too big and quickly too) and doesn't give anywhere near the same density as the acoustic stuff. Could well be a false economy to use the standard loft stuff in a listening room.
Rgds,
Nick
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 118
Hitchhiker
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Hitchhiker
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 118 |
If you are interested in soundproofing your room I would recommend heading to Soundproofingcompany.com and read the articles in the Library section. To be effective there's a lot more to it than adding insulation. Another great resource is the AVS Forum Dedicated Theater Design and Construction forum.
Main system (when room is done): 861v4, 7 x DSP33, SW1600, Oppo, Sonos
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,868 Likes: 13
Knows where his towel is
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Knows where his towel is
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,868 Likes: 13 |
Nick,
That price seems correct, if my memory serves me! I hoped that compressing 150mm would equate to the 2 x thickness of acoustic roll!
The problem with all these techniques is you cannot practically test the effectiveness. Whumpf you are absolutely correct!
Regards I
Under review
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 35
Harmless
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Harmless
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 35 |
Does anyone have experience using -PS Audio`s --Power Plant Premier? Would there be any advantage replacing the Transparent PowerBank 8 with the PPP?
Thanks,
Jim
Meridian: 861v4 + ID40, HD621, Ultra DAC, 857, 558.2
Speakers: B&W 802D, B&W HTM2D, 2-15" custom subwoofers, B&W LM1
Other: Oppo BDP-83, Mac Mini Roon Core.
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